The Musing Qualities Of Youth

Youth was always fazinating to us, because it is something that is beautyful when it is blowing but passes by quickly. Youth was always fashion and it will always be.

I am now 27 years old (far too many years out of fashion) but I often forget that I am not the 15 year old little girl anymore, who is getting drunk at parties not knowing what happened the day after. I live now a calm life with my partner with a regular day, regular meals and only a few cigarettes and glasses of wine when I go out. Would I have continued the same lifestyle I would maybe be a really wasted woman now, because not everybody is conserved like a Kate Moss. No matter what you do when you are young you are beautyful, even when you are a total mess you have a certain kind of charm that no one can take from you.
Right now Youth is having a revival.

When I am looking at the photos of The Cobrasnake I think teenagers make their experiences fast, faster than years ago and if they do it "in fashion" at the right place they can make a profit out of it. 17-year old Corey Kennedy is the best example.

She was an ordinary girl who now lives the american dream to do whatever you want to do at any time. Everything is possible, especially when you are young. I wanted to write about her a long time ago, even before I started this blog in 2005. When Cory was 15 years old, Mark Hunter, owner of the Cobrasnake web site, started taking photos of her at parties and concerts. For the observers Cory had such a facinating attidude that they loved every picture of her, whatever she did.

Now, 2 years later, Cory is THE MUSE, a universal term I use for people who do nothing special but are famous anyways. That does not mean that I want to put her down, no, on the contrary I think she is quite enriching in this role. Corey is involved in different photo shoots, recently on the cover of Jalouse Paris, gives interviews about her destiny and has her own style column in Nylon Mag. Is this not something many teenagers would dream of? Is it not something which can open her many doors to live her dreams when she finished school? Capital YOUTH - fullstop.
But there is not just Corey, Hedi Slimane, who always had a crush on youth recently hosted an exhibition in Berlin's Arndt and Partners gallery called "Sweet Birth Of Youth" showing teenagers in various life time situation. All of them had something in common, they were looking innocent and skinny and wasting theirselves....
Maybe this is youth, wasting yourself and discovering the possibilities until you have grown up.

Then life will be quite quiet.

GROOMING: Necessary Evil Or Fun

Susie Bubble's personal post on grooming made me think about my preferences and what I consider as the minimum effort. First of all I prefer the natural look so much more than the "trying to hard look". I don't like actresses like Eva Longoria or the rest of her crew walking around like transvestites. Even for a long night out, I would always prefer looking natural.

Cross-national differences:
Like Susie already indicated with the example of her New York friend, I think there are differences between countries what is being considered as adequate. If Susie's NYC friend says a manucure is necessary the main part of New York women might agree. I can only speak for Germany and what I observe in France. For me there are 2 extremes I can see in Germany: Women looking like they make a big effort, where results represent the "artificial look" or the cool girls walking around in Vans Sneakers and hoodies. Of course there are other facettes, I am just speaking of the two big extremes. In France most woman look soigné but always very natural, as I like it.

What is necessary?

Hair:
For me it is absolutelly necessary that the hair is shiny and if coloured, in a very natural way.
I prefer organic shampoo and once a week a hair mask by KORRES. When it comes to styling I resist "styling it to death" but I am also not the "out-of-bed" girl. A mix of both does it, depending on the outfit. If the outfit is elegant the hair could look a bit undone and the other way round.

Body:
I think it is necessary to work on a nice form but you cannot do more than eat healthy and and move whenever possible. When moving to France I gave up the gym and I think I have a nicer body now. I am very tiny and the gym and muscles made me look compact.Twice I week pilates and a lot of walking is enaugh.

Skin Care and nails:
Skin Care is most important. I think a peeling and skin mask once a week is necessary as well as skin cleaning in the morning and evening. Here again, I prefer tested cosmetics like KIEHLS peeling and mask.
I never go to the cosmetician because it is too expensive. But what would she do besides peeling and mask? For a day cream I am very picky. I prefer Maria Galland which is expensive but perfect. I would rather abjure buying a new oufit than buying this product. It is a but hysteric but I rely on it.Once a month I try to make my way to a Sauna or Hammam. Afterwards you feel so clean and the skin in shining just très agréable.
I make my nails once a week. As Susie thinks of nail studios in London, I have the opinion that nail studios are too expensive in Paris as well - therefore, I take care of them on my own, but keep them very natural and short.

Make-Up:
I don't use much make up and I don't like to do make up. I don't have a bad concious about it because I am happy with nicely formed eybrows, mascara, eye liner and some rosé Sisley blush. Since I am 16 years old, I use the same eye liner by Lancome, which has the same green as my eyes. This is most important for me and I am afraid of the day when this product will not be available anymore. I attached some make-up examples I like. The blush of Morgane Dubled has the perfect colour for her skin. Besides her eybrows are in a perfect condition which cannot really be influenced when you have blond hair or small eybrows. She also has flawless skin and I bet she makes an effort to keep it like this. Anna Mouglalis' make up is perfect for the evening. It is visible but still natural. Tomorrow I am going to the Raveonettes concert, let's see how long it takes me to get my make-up done...

Something you cannot buy or influence:
...and at least there is the Kate-example. She has something you cannot buy and where there exist no beauty receipt. She smokes, drinks alcohol, does drugs or not and always looks flawless. I am talking of an aura. Whether you have it or not, you can only try to be happy with yourself, as simple or hard as it may sound.

Une francaise new yorkaise: Julia Restoin-Roitfeld

There are people who prefer a decent and harmonic way of dressing and there are others who like to experimentalize and have fun with clothes.
In most cases the preferences are mutually exclusive. There is one girl who accomplishes both ways of dressing: Being the natural, classic french mademoiselle as well as the hip New York girl. This is Julia une francaise new yorkaise. 27 year-old Julia Restoin-Roitfeld is the daughter of Paris Vogue's Carine Roitfeld the Oh La La Muse of the french fashion industry. Her daughter who has developed her own style is isn't any rank behind her.

Her way of mixing Paris with New York is simply rare. In an interview of Timesonline she critized the french of being too judgemental and conservative when it comes to dressing and that New Yorkers are so open to new ideas. Julia is a combination of both she is classic when it comes to hair and make up but open to experimentalize wearing latex mini from a sex shop. This special combination makes THE STYLE.

NY Fashion Week: Spring 2008

This is personal post on a my personal favorites of NY fashion week 2008. I selected to write about 3 desingers with 3 totally diffent collections each unique for itself.

Tommy Hilfiger

I was never a "Tommy Girl" wearing sportive clothes, but this collection was different. From a "wearable" point of view Tommy Hilfiger striked the right note.

It still remained a typically sportive character, but in sophisticated, sartorial way. Tommy Hilfiger included my personal wardrobe favorites like marine blue blazers with golden buttons, trenchcoats, striped shirts, in "tommy coulours": navy blue, white, beige or red. Small cutted sailor pants with side buttons were worn with silk blouses, striped tops or shirts. The dresses were short and of beautyful elegance ignoring any sporty note. Main accessoiry was the straw head in a perfect combination with sailor pants and short dresses. The Men's wear was really "gentlemen", a mix of Cary Grant and Steve McQueen: striped and beige suits with white leather shoes reminding of St. Tropez in the 1960's. All in all a very classic collection mixed with old-school elegance.

Betsey Johnson

What I like about her and her collection the courage to be ironic. "This is so america stereotype" was the first thing which came into my mind watching the collection consisting of exaggerated glamorous dresses and suits.
All was a variation of petticoated prom dresses which went through the designs of the sixties, seventies, eighties to now. Colours being chosen included pastel colours as well as a demonstrative pink and red plus a bit of black and white. The models reminded me of Barbie and visiting the prom night of there high school. It is less wearable than fun, but this is Betsey Johnson.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Having an eye for real innovations is rare. Brazil-born Alexandre Herchcovitch is a designer who has it.
Centre of his collection was the tuxedo blazer being cut and transformed to make it wearable for women.
Base colourblack combined with red and white and a pastel yellow. Borders between men's and women's clothes blurred without loosing the focus on a female silhoutte.
I think he played it well but I personally missed the spring feeling in his designs.

TBC: Favorites - Traffic de Mode - September, 6-9

Many magazines wrote about the biker jacket being "THE PIECE TO HAVE" for la rentrée.
I still don't have one and I refuse to make my personal shopping dependend on magazine advices but...when I saw the booth of Ventcouvert, luckily based in Paris, I was inspired and the leather jacket went up to place #1 on my shopping list.They have a collection of jackets and coats, all made of leather, for men and women. I never heard of Ventcouvert before but I learned that they already existed in 1986. As my father could have worn one of their jackets when he was 26 years old this is indeed not a new label but a great one!
http://www.ventcouvert.com/
109, BD Beaumarchais
75003 Paris

"The Box" presented a nice selection of accessoiries like, bags, jewelery, shoes and glasses. My favorite jewelery designer is a parisian again, Eva Krystal.
Her boutique is bassed in the 19th Arrondissement, rue de meaux. Her pieces are simple but special and don't need too much attention. The sort of jewelery one choses is always very personal and special. I always prefer decent pieces because I always want my outfit to be harmonic.
http://www.evakrystal.com/
26, rue de meaux 75019 Paris

Julia Smith is a london based designer, and by the way, a friendly and helpful girl. Being a very emontional character I am much more into buying if I like someone's attidude. What I like about her collection is the dresses with run in corsets. I did not try one but I am sure they will make a beautyful and feminine silhouette.
Her pieces, be it skirt, blouse or dress are all very feminine and mixture and very Dita-pin-up like.
www.juliasmithfashion.co.uk

Danish label Naja Lauf is a label of one I would like to buy each single piece, especially for the winter.
The whole collection looks so comfortable with regards to details and nice materials.
Naja Lauf was launched in 2000 to bring a new style to contemporary fashion. In 2005 it received the Danish Design Award from the danish magazine "Alt for Danerne". www.altfordamerne.dk
http://www.najalauf.dk/

Other Cute Stuff:
www.oevelingerie.com
Lingerie
12, Rue Aux Ours
75003 Paris
Very provocative lingerie men will love. I don't like everything because for me the collection is being on the border of being vulgar.
Although I think that's the point about lingerie it is boring when it is not sexy but it should not be too sexy meaning pornographic.
But again this lies in the eye of the observer.

Pret A Porter Paris: Traffic De Mode Exhibition

As I Non Buyer I made my way to the Porte de Versailles to visit the Pret a Porter Exibition.
It is a fair, usually for buyers, presenting fashion and accessories from around the world from new and well-known designers.
It is a 65 000 sqm fashion hub including 1550 labels being presented on 3 floors. Top 10 visiting countries (excluding France) include Italy, Spain, Great Britain, Japan, Belgium, Greece, Germany, Switzerland, USA and Russia

Main Exhibition Areas:
" Atmosphère d'été " - The meeting place for fashion designers
" The Box" - The meeting place for accessory labels
" Casabo" - Concept, crossover, discovery, lifestyle.

If you love fashion and if you are open for new labels it is really a good occasion to inform yourself and get a more personal view on new designs "HORS VOGUE" and other fashion magazines. The most interesting aspect for me was to see how much the culture and mentality of a country influence their fashion. Being german orgigin I could for example understand the work of the designer Annette Goertz very well. Her pieces were a mix of wide layering clothes in decent dark colours. It must be quite convenient to wear them, typically german. Having said that, I noticed how "french" I became with my selection of preferred designers. I found a lot new brands I totally like and I will dedicate my next post to them.

A day at the fair could look like this:

Morning:

Go to the photo exhibition to get your first creative inspirations for the day. Join the bar at VOGUE café to drink a strong french coffee followed by a delicious croissant at Pauls. Afterwards check out all the great designers "Atmosphere" on the first level.

After-Noon:

Have a short stop at one of the counters exhibiting fashion books and magazine and enjoy. Afterwards pick up a nice baguette at Pauls bakery and then make your way to the Zen Area to have a short sleep after lunch. I did it and I must say très agréable - I consider a Zen Center at a fair a great constitution! Afterwards you should be fit for Level 2. You should not miss to watch one of the defilés which is really fun.

Evening:

Level 3 is still waiting...take it slow and take your time to initialize. A great ending of your fashion day should be a nice glass of champagne combined with chilly music.

Still no impression what your day could look like? Check out the visors guide

Special Photos For Special Relations: Tina Barney

It is always a pleasure discover special things. This week-end I was lucky to get to know the work of american photographer Tina Barney.
Tina Barney, who currently lives in Rhode Island, was born in 1945 in New York. Having the benefit of growing up in a healthy family, she started with photography at the age of 26. Barney is known for portraying people of the "upper class" in colourful pictures. Her main interest is to visualise traditional family relations and social role models. Her photos can be considered as a sociological study in pictures.
Accidently I came accross her photography book "Theatre Of Manners" because the title attracted my attention.
The book is a documentation relationships of her family and close friends shot in everyday situations, private parties and celebrations.
Barney's photos are authentic and beautyful as well as brutally honest. Therewith, she provides an intimidate view into her privace which characterises her photographs and makes her stand out of the range from many other photographers.

"When people say that there is a distance, a stiffness in my photographs, that the people look like they do not connect, my answer is, that this is the best that we can do. This inability to show physical affection is in our heritage."
— Tina Barney

This quote is brutal and honest as her photographs itsself. How much more straight to the point could she describe her work?

Her work is exposed at the following venues:
George Eastman House in Rochester, New York
Yale University Art Gallery New Haven, Connecticut
Museum of Fine Arts Houston
Museum of Modern Art New York

The GAP And The HARDY

C'est genial! News on Fashion Week Daily today...french accessories designer Pierre Hardy designs a range of men's and women's shoes for GAP.
The designs will be available later this year in France and the UK. He plans to extend the selection for spring next year. Pierre Hardy is also part of GAP's latest capaign photos shot by Anni Leibovitz together with other personalities like Armanda Harlech. The campaign as well as the collaboration with Pierre Hardy sounds a bit like an image change to me. From now on GAP stands not only for convenient clothes but also creativity.

The Wonderland Of Christian Lacroix

Karl Lagerfeld started, Stella McCartney went onward, Pierre Hardy is the latest doing it and the collection of Christian Lacroix is currently online. Guess what's the subject: Yes it is about luxury designers serving the mass market by creating collections for the big fashion chains like H&M, GAP and the online warehouse La Redoute in the case of Lacroix. Some projects are more interesting some are less impassionate. What I like about the one of Christian Lacroix and La Redoute is not so much the product range but the point of sale:
They created virtual dream world with model Lilly Cole presenting his design going from clothes and accessoiries to furniture and decoration in different virtual show rooms. I call it the "Christian Lacroix Wonderland". It is not necessarily about its function but enjoying the arty side of a site.